Thelon River 2004
Nestor Lewyckyj, Montreal, Canada
The picture above was taken on August 6th as we are ready to board the de Havilland Beaver behind us. The four of us, novice and intermediate canoeists at best, set out on a 2 week, 220 kilometre, canoe trip on one of Canada's most famous northern rivers, through a game sanctuary that passes you gently from a treed northern oasis, to a barren wind-blown tundra. We took many pictures, had many experiences, and all in all, had a great time. Oh, did I tell you, the fishing was great?? None of us were unchanged by the experience.
The Trip
The trip took a little over a year to plan, which isn't so bad. I received a Canadian canoeing book which listed the Thelon as one of the ten best rivers to canoe in Canada. I was immediately intrigued. It was easy enough to find the Thelon Game Sanctuary on the map. A quick web search provided us with the all of the information we needed.
At right is an image of the Sanctuary, showing the river. The two red dots indicate the starting and stopping points of our trip. The exact coordinates are shown further down on this page. The starting point was Warden's Grove, the confluence of the Hanbury and Thelon Rivers.
One of the most compelling features of this section of the Thelon River, is that for 220 river kilometres (about 160 kilometres as the crow flies) you can canoe down stream without any portages. Depending on the time of year, parts of the river might be quite quick, but no real rapids for that entire section.
The domain name www.thelon.com is owned by Great Canadian Ecoventures and that is where we organized our canoe rental and flights to and from the river. Great Canadian Ecoventures is run by (Tundra) Tom Faess and he can always be reached at tundra@thelon.com Tundra Tom is a product of the Far North and is in every way as interesting as the Barren Lands.
On a map, and/or with a GPS, the starting and ending coordinates are:
Wardens Grove:
N63º
41.580' x W104º 26.335'
Thelon Bluffs: N64º 31.522' X W101º 20.771'
We all met up in
Yellowknife, Northwest Territories. We had pre-booked a 2-bedroom suite at
the
Fraser Suites which was perfect for us. Keith arrived in Yellowknife
hours ahead of the rest of us and spent that time casing the town, looking
at the likely places to pick up last minute supplies. Nathalie and I flew
from Montreal to Calgary where we were to transfer to Canadian North to fly
through Edmonton on to Yellowknife. As luck would have it, we bumped into
Taras, who was flying from Toronto, and had spent 5 hours in the terminal
already, dying of boredom. We all clambered into the Maple Leaf lounge and
prepared ourselves for the long flight north. We arrived late in the evening
and reached the hotel near
dark. Tundra
Tom had one of his guys pick us up, and he took us for a quick
tour of the town,
on the way to the hotel. We were all so knackered, that we really didn't do any
exploring that night. We had a bottle of
wine, chatted, and that was it. Next morning was different. We could taste
the excitement in the air. We and our gear were picked
up in the morning and brought to Ecoventures where we met Tom, got a good
briefing, signed off a ton of forms. Close by were several stores for
souvenirs, supplies (fuel) and the like. We met Brad (the pilot) at this point and we
packed our gear into the van and headed off to the bay where the Beaver (a
small plane) was.
Brad mentioned something about the weight of our baggage, but fortunately it
all fit into the back of the plane, which is really not that large. We all
clambered on board, Brad fired up the engine and away we went.
Flying in a Beaver
Now, you have to understand, that flying in a de
Havilland Beaver is not quite the same as flying Air Canada. The
plane fits 5 people bar
ely
(this includes the pilot) and only a modest amount of baggage. Production on
the Beaver ended in 1967. I do not know how many were made but if you are at
all interested, you can start looking
here. The plane is all metal (aluminium) and its claim to fame is that
it is as tough as nails. Apparently a Beaver in good condition can fetch
$500,000 CDN, which floored me. Apparently, they are money machines for bush
pilots and charter air lines. Tundra Tom couldn't do what he does with
fishermen, photographers, and canoeists without one. The floats allow Brad
to land on any straight section of a deep enough river or any any lake large
enough to take off. He doesn't need more than a few
hundred metres of flat, deep water. The Beaver was built as a workhorse, and
not to coddle its passengers. The plane is small (our model), loud, cold,
and rattled a lot. Given the fact that it was a 3 hour flight (through
Whitefish Lake) to our
starting point at Warden's Grove, it feels longer
than that in the Beaver. Having said that, the Beaver is a phenomenal way to
view the North. It typically flies low, and
if
there is any cloud cover at all, it will fly under it. I don't think Brad
ever flew over 3,500 feet and was often at 2,000 feet. On the return flight,
we started off at about 1,000 feet. You get to see a lot of detail at that
height, including wildlife. We spotted things like pairs of swans, geese and
other water fowl. Unfortunately, the caribou were not in that part of the
Thelon, so we saw no mega fauna. After the take off in Yellowknife and the
landing in Whitefish Lake, it was clear to us that Brad was an excellent
pilot. I think we felt much more at ease at that point. It is hard to
describe the
feeling I had when we first spotted the Thelon from the air and
Brad pointed out where we were going to land. It was then that I realized
how wonderful a small float plane can be. Brad landed on the river as if he
was landing at an airport. No fuss, no bother. Three minutes later he had
run one of the floats onto the sandy beach and we were getting out of the
plane, and stepping onto the Barrens, in the Thelon Sanctuary. We had
arrived! The air was cool but sweet, and the excitement was palpable in the
air. We were about to start our adventure.
Warden's Grove
We spent the first night at Warden's grove,
having arrived there in the late afternoon. Our canoes were not
there
yet and Brad was to return the next morning with them. We set up our tents,
and having nothing better to do, we decided to try fishing, from shore. It
was then that we realized what kind of fishing we were up
for.
Here is a shot of me with my first pike. We set up our tents on the bluff
above the river, across from the old water surveyors cabin, trying to get a
sense of the place. It seemed so foreign, so different, so isolated. I
remembered having some doubts in my mind as to whether what we had planned
was in fact a good idea. The good weather made easing into the Thelon
easier, I suppose, as did the initial successes with the fish.
The Fishing
The four of us came with 3 fishing rods (the men)
thinking of maybe catching fish, maybe not. We had read that although the
fishing can
be good, you cannot rely on catching fish for food. We took that as meaning
that the fishing was not tha
t
great. That turned out to be completely
not true. Had we wanted to, we could have lived off of fish the whole two
weeks. We caught three types of fish: Northern Pike, Lake Trout, Grayling.
The pike was the most plentiful and they were certainly fun to catch.
Anywhere there was water grasses, or any place where a river or stream fed
into the Thelon was sure to have pike lurking, waiting to feed on the
smaller fish coming in from the streams. These pike were huge, and I was
amazed at the size of their mouths and their teeth. Unhooking one of these
monsters was quite the ope
ration
requiring two people, one to hold the mouth open with pliers or a rock, the
other to unhook it. I haven't had much practice with pike lately and two of
them got a piece of my thumbs. I bled freely. One of those gashes got
infected several days afterwards, and I had to do some first aid work on it.
We didn't eat any of the pike as none of us were that fond
of
pike meat. Fortunately, we didn't have to. The Lake Trout proved
to be almost equally abundant and they were great
fighters. The problem with the lake Trout was catching one that wasn't too
large to eat. Many that we caught we simply could not have eaten in one
sitting, and we didn't want to have leftover fish around with the prospect
of barren land grizzlies around. So we relea
sed
many good sized Lake Trout back into the Thelon. The trout we ate were about
5 pounds each and would make a great meal
for the 4 of us. We were disadvantaged in several ways while fishing that
made the landing of these large fish difficult. First, we were fishing from
shore. While this makes for a very stable platform, it is tough to drag such
large fish right to shore if its shallow and we had n
o
waders. In such a shallow environment, nets are ineffective. You essentially
are left with no alternative but to drag
the fish as close as possible to you and then lunge at it with your bare
hands. Fortunately, with three of you fishing, the one with a fish one would
scream, which would bring the other two scrambling for help. I must admit
that it worked rather well. The second difficulty is that we had weenie
little trout fishing rods. I am used to fishing for 1 and 2 pound trout, not
25 pounds beasts. I had an 8 lb test line (Fireline) on my Shimano rod.
Although I never lost a fish due to a broken line, several broke as I was
struggling with the fish with my bare hands. The light line and small rod
simply extended the time it took to land the fish, as you had to be very
careful with the drag settings, in particular if you were working against
the current. The large trout that I am holding above took at least 20
minutes to bring in. So the recommendation is, bring a solid fishing rod
made for fish in the 20 lb range and bring 20 lb test line. If you have the
room, bring both a larger rod and a smaller one for fishing the streams for
grayling. That would be the ideal set up.
Foraging and Meals
In a land known as The Barrens, it felt odd and
certainly unexpected to be pulling so much tasty protein form the river. We
were also
able to supplement our diet with some foraging on land. There were two
things in abundance in mid August that we took full advantage of. One was
the blueberries. There were literally tons
of them in huge berry fields. If we had
wanted to, we could have literally
eaten pounds of them each day. Nathalie was usually the one who would spend
the time we fished picking blueberries,
which we ate just like that, or we would save them for Keith's famous
blueberry cobbler. The second item we found was real surprise. On the third
day, someone brought a mushroom to me, inquiring whether it was edible or
not. My father is the big mushroom picker and I know some of the main types
that are good. This mushroom was of the Boletes variety, a "pidberiznyk" in
Ukrainian. This mushroom is called the
Common Scaber Stalk. "This is impossible", I said. This type of mushroom
grows primarily under birch trees (the
Ukrainian name literally means this) and we were hundreds of kilometres,
maybe thousands, from any deciduous forest. Keith quietly pointed out that
he thought that the small shrubs that
covered the hill we were standing on were dwarf birches (Keith would know
something like this). Voila! mystery solved. We went nuts picking all of the
mushroom we could find. Just our luck that they were exactly in season when
we were passing through. Although th
e
rest of the group expressed some
apprehension towards eating them (some doubt about my knowledge of
mushrooms), when no one got sick after our first meal, we just kept on
picking. They were delicious, in fact, and supplemented a number
of our meals. Nathalie, Taras and Keith became, quite literally, barren
lands chefs, discussing and debating the menu of each meal. I was amazed at
the attention to detail, the zeal and excitement with which each meal was
created from the food we brought, the fish we caught, and the mushrooms and
berries we found. We were rather well organized for our trip but we had
decided that everyone would be responsible for their own food. Given the
fact that we were coming from 3 different
cities, we felt that coordinating food as a group would be tough. This meant
that once on the Thelon, we started to discover who brought what, and we
ended up sharing a lot. I brought a lot of freeze dried food, a habit I
picked up from hiking, where weight is critical. Taras was on the other
extreme, bring all kinds of breads, pork fat "salo", cured meats, etc. This
variety fed the barren lands chefs' imagination and produced stunning
results at meal time every day. I must admit that I was truly impressed with
what and how we ate for the 2 weeks. I never expected it and it was one of
the highlights of the trip.
Mega fauna
We had
read much about the Thelon's large animals but we were only partially lucky in
seeing them. We did not see any musk ox or wolverines but we got lucky with
bears and wolves. Keith and Taras spotted a barren land grizzly on shore as we
rounded and bend but he spotted us and ran off before Nathalie and I could see
him. Couple days later we spotted this one on the opposite bank of the river. It
was a difficult spot. It was a bend in the river where it turned into the stiff
wind that was blowing that day. Nathalie and I were battling the winds and the
white caps while at the same time trying to paddle closer to the opposite shore
to get a closer look at the bear. As we got closer, I grabbed my camera with
its 300mm lens while Nathalie steadied the canoe in front. I snapped at least 20
shots, not knowing if any would be sharp enough due to the frenzied bobbing of
the canoe in the waves. I remember Tundra Tom telling us that barren land
grizzlies are different from their
western cousin in that they are leaner and lighter in colour. They don't eat as
much protein. As Tom said, its hard to corner something in the barrens. But
grizzlies are intelligent and curious animals. Where the first bear we spotted
scampered off right away, this one was as curious in us as we were in him. He
was walking upstream along the shore when we first saw him. As we approached the
shore, he climbed up the 20-foot bank to get further away but he came down to
shore as he got upstream from us and came right up to the waters edge, sniffing
the air (we were now upwind from him). For a moment, I even thought it possible
that he would enter the water to get closer to us. I was trying to remember what
I had read about grizzlies and remembered one writer recounting how he waded
into neck deep water to get away from an overly curious grizzly that came to
visit his camp. But what was on my mind was that this would be a terribly
inconvenient spot to capsize the canoe, and if we were not careful, the wind
would ground the canoe and the grizzly would have a very close up view of US. As
we paddled away, he tried the air a few more times, then ambled off upstream,
following the shore. We saw bear tracks a number of times, along the middle
section of our trip. We saw tracks close to our camp one day, probably made
while we were at camp. We were always (almost always) very careful about where
we ate and how we cleaned up. When we cleaned our fish, we threw all of the body
parts far into the river, much to the delight of the local sea gulls. But given
how sensitive their noses are, bears will find you if they are in the area.
The
sole wolf we saw was under very different circumstances. We had made camp by a
small (and only) clump of trees, less than 40 kilometres from our journey end
point. We were wind bound there for 3 days and nights. We placed our
tents downwind from the trees and they provided considerable shelter. We were
sitting by our fire at midday when this wolf just trotted by, perhaps 200 metres
away, just avoiding our camp. For some reason, as he trotted away from us, I
howled at him. This got his attention! He stopped, looked towards us and howled
back. this went on for several minutes, the wolf and I howling at one another
until Taras suggested that perhaps my toying with carnivorous mega fauna should
come to an end. The wolf howled several more times with no response from me. His
sense of curiosity very interesting. He laid down for a while, perhaps wondering
why we were no longer "speaking" to him. He then retraced his steps towards the
shore and upstream from us perhaps to get a better smell of us. he then trotted
back to his previous spot and lat down again. The entire encounter took
something approaching an hour, at which point he gave up, and quietly went
inland from the river. We talked about this for a while and I wondered if such a
similar encounter 50,000 years ago paved the way to today's modern dog. I can't
help but think that had we persisted in our calling, the wolf would have stayed
around much longer. And had we given him food.......
We saw
caribou on a number of occasions, but the large Beverly herd was apparently in
the North Eastern section of the
sanctuary. We only saw individual animals and
groups of threes. Apparently you have to plan to see the caribou. As we found
out, its not
automatic. You do see the occasional sign if them most notably old antlers and
the like. We did not see any carcasses or skeletons. They do not call it the
barrens for nothing. Its, well, barren. Its not filled with large mammals like
the African plains. There isn't enough food to support them and the climate is
just too harsh. Aside from bears, wolves, and caribou, the only other large
mammal we saw was multiple moose. They are rather skittish and they can see you
coming from quite a ways off, so getting close enough for a picture is difficult
and would take a far bit of time.
Big Sky
They
say that Montana is Big Sky Country. I've never been to Montana, and it may be
true, but its hard to see how anything can be bigger sky country than the
barrens. The land is very flat with only gentle rolling relief. Its Huge Sky
Country, if ask me. The sky is ever present and you are constantly aware of it.
It is such a big part of what you are seeing because of the low relief of the
land.
The combination of low relief and the almost complete absence of any landmarks
also gives you a
weird
perspective of distances. Everything seems to by much closer than it really is.
It can take you what seems like forever to get out of visual range of the tent.
It can easily take a kilometre or more.
Night
As
compared to June, August has a real night. It starts rather late (23:00) and
finishes early (04:00) and it never gets pitch black, but its close. We never
stayed out very late as night. There isn't much to do and it gets quiet chilly.
The coming of night sometimes brought
some interesting images. We had a fair bit
of cloud cover so we saw the Northern Lights prominently only one night.
There
probably is a whole
technique
to photographing them because it is quite technically challenging. You are
photographing them (naturally) in very low light, yet they move and change
quickly. The shot on the left is the only decent shot I was able to take,
although I did not take many. What was odd about the Northern Lights was how low
they were on t
he horizon to the SOUTH of us. We were so far north that the
Northern Lights were to the south of us.
The River and Canoeing
Although the land in the Thelon Sanctuary is called The Barrens, the river
itself goes through a number of different stages visually, as the terrain slowly
changes. In the first half of the trip there are a lot of small trees on either
side of the river. This is what is referred to as a forest oasis and it occurs
as a narrow band on either side of the river. The trees are small and scraggly
and they are
rather sparse, but it is technically a forest. There are also a lot of dwarf
birches, especially on elevated ground above the river. In some sections the
river runs quite quickly with small cliffs on either side. In other sections, it
spreads out for many hundreds of metres and can
be very shallow. In some spots, like the picture to the right, we actually ran
aground in the sand. The river was only a few inches deep and had spread out
considerably. I suspect that the sand really moves around year to year and that
the river changes in so far as which parts are readily navigable and which are
not. In mid-August, we had probably picked a time when the river is at its
lowest. There were no rapids at all between Warden's Grove and Thelon Bluffs.
There are a number of swifts where the water surface breaks a bit and these are
a useful distraction. You can cover considerable distance in a short period of
time. using
my running GPS (Garmin Forerunner 101) I clocked a top speed for us at about 17
Km/hr. This was in a long wavering swift with us paddling as hard as we could.
Hardly white water stuff but this is what makes the Thelon so accessible to many
people. Who really need only basic canoeing skills. As I understand it, in early
June, the river is q
uite
a different story. The canoes that Tundra Tom provided us (and Brad and a friend
assembled for us at Warden's Grove) were tough, plastic canoes. I don't believe
they were ABS but some other plastic. They were quite heavy but we were not
doing any portages so they served us very well.
Side Trips
Although we were on the river for almost 2 weeks, we did only limited side
trips. In general, there is not much to see, because its the Barrens. There were
a few exceptions. The map showed a large
pingo a few
kilometres north of the river at one point.
Given
the fact that there is precious little high ground up there,
we
decided it would an interesting excursion and it might give us some views. Like
in the dessert, there are very few distance markers in the barrens so its tough
to know how far an object is away from you. We knew the pingo was about 5 km in
land but it still seemed like forever to get to it, even though we could see it
the entire time. The pingo is surrounded by water most of the time (evidently)
and we had a hard time reaching it. We found areas of dried mud and made it
across abut a good
rain
would have made it impassable without some serious boots. We saw a large
Snowy
Owl on the way to the pingo. It was going through a serious of swoops and
landings but never close enough for a good picture. I was impressed by its size
and wingspan. It was wonderfully white. The top of the pingo was perhaps 40 feet
above the plain. It looked like a small volcano with a crater in the middle.
It
seemed to be ,made of hard mud. A number of rodents (marmots?) inhabited the
pingo and had a series of burrows in it. They were very curious in us but were
too shy to come close. The pingo did give us a good 360° view, but as you can
see, there is not much to see except more tundra. We did see a moose of in the
distance. He must have heard us because by the time we spotted him, he was
crashing through the bushes away from us. Its hard to sneak up on something in
the barrens. It was reasonably warm that day but there was a nice breeze in our
face as we walked to the pingo. Flies were non-existent and we shed our bug
nets, as the pictures attest. The walk back to the river (and our canoes) was
quite different. The wind was at our back now. The relative difference in our
speed with the wind made all the difference for the black flies. They were now
all around us. We quickly donned our head gear and continued on. But it was an
example of the fact that the black flies are always present but certain weather
conditions keep them down in the grass while other conditions unleash them.
Which brings us to the next obvious section.
Bugs
The
one thing that is true of tundra is that there are a lot of bugs. That is
inescapable. Especially in this band of tundra. You go further north where its
REALLY barren like Baffin Island or Ellesmere Island, and the bugs are less of a
problem, especially because it tends to be windy there. We had read a fair bit
before setting out that black flies could be terrible depending where you were
and the time of year. In mid-August its apparently better than in late June. We
were prepared with bug shirts as well as some smaller head nets. Its black flies
during the day and mosquitoes at dawn and dusk.
The bugs are always there. But whether they bother you completely depends on
temperature and wind. If its warm and no wind, the black flies can be brutal
during the day. If the wind picks up to even 10 or 15 kph, the black flies
literally disappear into the tundra, into the grass. If its cooler, the black
flies tend to be less aggressive as well. On our walk to see the pingo above, we
were walking west, and the westward wind increased our relative wind velocity.
The end result was that the flies were not bothering us. On our way back. the
wind was at our backs, and the black flies all of a sudden started harassing us,
so we had to put the nets on. You don't need a big shift in conditions to bring
on or turn off the black flies.
Given how cold the winters are out here, its amazing so many bugs (or larvae) survive year to year.
Out on
the river, the bugs rarely bothered us except if the wind was completely dead,
which was rare.
The
mosquitoes are just as sensitive to the wind, if not more so. However, they are
really active only at dawn and dusk so they tend to be less of a problem as we
were typically either in our tents, or in the bug tent. The worst thing about
the black flies was going to the bathroom, when you had to squat. Because they
hide in the tundra, squatting down simply invites an assault on your most
intimate body parts. You learn to do this very quickly. We did not have a
separate small tent for this, and next time I go, I am bringing one. In
general, the following points need to be observed:
1) I strongly recommend the use of the Bug Shirt, available at many stores catering to the outdoorsman
2) A separate small head net can be handy when you don't want to put the whole shirt on
3) Good quantities of Muskol (full strength) are a must, for your hands, ears, etc.
4) A dining tent is a must. Sitting outside to eat will simply be very unpleasant. A mesh tent is perfect for this. The only problem we had with it is that it does not tolerate wind very well. I will have to search on the internet to see if there are any other models available that are more resistant to wind. Typically they tend to be tall so that you can stand in them which hurts their wind tolerance.
5) A small tent to act as a latrine would be a great asset. I plan to have one next time I go.
In general, the bugs are not bad enough to keep me from coming back. But if you are not prepared for them, you will suffer terribly
Epilogue
It is 4 years later that I write this. I often think about our trip on the Thelon, and I plot my return. I would go tomorrow if I had a crew ready to go. A 2-person team is ok for those that are adventuresome, but I think that groups of 4 are best. You have a spare canoe, 2 tents in case of trouble and the group is not too large to manage. Once you get to 6 and 8 persons, the logistics become more involved. If anyone out there reading this is interested in going and does not have anyone to go with, drop me a line nestor@lewyckyj.com
All Photos © Nestor Lewyckyj 2007